A Sake Tasting at the MFA Boston
Dear Club Members,
Tonight is a really gorgeous full circle moment for me. I studied Art Administration at Simmons College (now University), which neighbors the MFA. My classes were in the galleries and it was the first place I applied for a job when I was about to graduate. In a lot of ways, my current job is what I went to school for. I see our beautiful bar as an art gallery showcasing the incredible work of Japanese sake brewers (and some International brewers too). When I am curating a menu for guests, it has a central theme that drives the selections just like a gallery show.
And tonight, the show I have curated for you is a lesson in modern vs. traditional sake expressions. The first two are more modern sakes. One is even owned by Pharrell (yes, HIM). The last one is an old school style of fermentation but those tend to go really well with food, especially something grilled.
If you have any further questions during my presentation, raise your hand!
If you are too shy, feel free to email me at alyssa@thekojiclub.com
The Menu
Abe Shuzo Junmai Ginjo from Niigata
The Koji Club Flavor Notes: Cantaloupe, Chamomile, Asian Pear
Food Pairing: Parmesan Frico Wafer, Whipped Mascarpone Cheese, Caramelized Pear
“In 2015, Abe Shuzo, based in Niigata, experienced a renaissance when its 6th-generation leader, Mr. Yuta Abe, assumed control of the brewery. Mr. Abe and his passionate team prioritize flavor above efficiency, guided by their principle of "Enjoy Fermentation." They do not halt the fermentation process based on alcohol percentage alone, but instead stop it when they feel the flavor has reached its peak. By attentively listening to the microorganisms involved in the fermentation process, the alcohol percentage may vary between batches.” - Fifth Taste Sake
Ohmine ‘Three Grain’ Junmai Ginjo from Yamaguchi
The Koji Club Flavor Notes: Big Sumo Energy (the fruit, not the wrestling), Coco Lopez, Lychee
Food Pairing: Ahi Tuna Tartar, Sliced Radish, Avocado Mousse, Ginger Soy Glaze, Rice Cracker
“Ohmine Shuzou’s operations resumed in 2010 after a 50-year hiatus in Mine City, Yamaguchi, which preserves much of its ancient natural beauty: the Akiyoshi Plateau, a national park formed over the course of 300 million years, and Shuhodo, the most impressive limestone cave in Asia. After the owner and the president, Takeshi Akiyama, worked in New York as an architect, he returned to his home in Yamaguchi to start a business to support the local rice farming community. With this goal in mind, Akiyama-san gave life to what was once a dormant sakagura. Akiyama-san’s passion and vision have now been realized. Many young and passionate brewers work hard to innovate from a scientific point of view, and Ohmine has married that approach with artistic style by welcoming Pharrell Williams and Nigo in 2020 as owners, and together are building a new standard in the craft sake industry.” - Fifth Taste Sake
Kasumi Tsuru ‘Extra Dry’ Kimoto Junmai from Hyogo
Flavor Notes: Rich, complex, elegant and layered — a sophisticated earthy and savory saké with obvious umami. Taste notes of roasted nuts, honeyed rice cakes, shiitake mushrooms, and dried fruit
Food Pairing: Herb Grilled Chicken, Pico de Gallo, Corn Tostada
“With nearly 300 years of brewing experience, Kasumi Tsuru is unique in that it is one of the few breweries that crafts saké using only the Kimoto and Yamahai brewing methods. These methods produce complex, distinctive, umami rich saké. Being the local pride of the Tajima region is very important. The Kasumi Tsuru company creed is “Tajima no Hokori tare” (Do Tajima proud), and their policy is “quality first, community first and cordiality first.” Tucked in the northern side of Hyogo prefecture and just a short drive from the coast, Kasumi Tsuru is a hidden gem benefiting from the terroir of the area in terms of using only high quality saké - specific rice varietals such as Yamada Nishiki, Gohyakumangoku, and Hyogo Kita Nishiki, and also an abundance of local seafood and Tajima beef which pair perfectly with each of their saké.
To differentiate its saké from competitors, Kasumi Tsuru adopted the Yamahai brewing method in 1967, the Kimoto method in 1999, and committed to only these styles of brewing in 2011. These styles are more time consuming but give the saké distinct depth and flavor; very few breweries continue to employ these methods. This gives Master Brewer Matsumoto a more intriguing job as both these styles are much more laborious and time-consuming than the modern “Sokujo” method, locking in much more depth and complex flavors that no modern technology can replicate. Matsumoto’s commitment to remain as one of the rare Kimoto and Yamahai masters has been shown in Kasumi Tsuru’s consistent recognition of awards both in Japan and internationally.” - Sake One Imports